First and foremost a *huge* thank you to Tingoes for pointing me to the following link: http://www.xgaming.com/store/arcade-part...ck-upgrade-kit/
Prior to that, I tried everything. This includes an active PS/2 to USB adapter. The one seen here: http://sewelldirect.com/Active-USB-to-PS2-Adapter.asp
While the active PS/2 to USB adapter works the majority of the time I am using the HotRod SE, every now and then (Sometimes more frequent than other times) the controller would ‘lock’ in one direction. Wiggling the joystick in various directions would break the ‘sticking’, but obviously it is not an acceptable solution.
I also tried various keyboard delay, timing and repeat settings. Still the same sticking issue would inevitably occur. Additionally, using a PS/2 keyboard connected and disconnected to the HotRod SE also did not resolve the problem.
Finally, with the Hanaho Hotrod Joystick Upgrade Kit, my HotRod SE controller works perfectly again. I am using Windows 7 64-bit, connected the controller via USB, without any issues now. The kit itself is great, but you need time and some patience in installing it. Here are my recommended steps from what I received and worked best for me:
1. Open your HotRod SE controller and disconnect all wiring from the switches and the encoder.
2. Dismount/unscrew the old Hanaho encoder from the HotRod SE joystick.
3. Mount/Screw on the new Arcade PC encoder in the same place you dismounted the Hanaho one. Face the serial connector to the back of the controller in the same spot the former PS/2 connections would be stationed.
4. Wire all connections to the switches first. Do not run connections to the encorder yet. All the wires are clearly labeled and easy to connect. However, each switch has a ground connection (One running color seen throughout a variety of different colored wires). The ground connectors do not have to be connected with the wire they are paired together in a particular group. Groups of wires are set according to the jumper they will attach to on the X-Arcade encoder board. I noticed for some wire groups the ground wire connectors were daisy chained in a way that would make reaching the encoder impossible or the position around certain connections (I.E. the joystick) caused crossed wires or poor wire positioning. I paired the ground wire connectors in the same jumper group with a respective other color connector in a way that was best for the HotRod SE layout. Again, this may sound more difficult than it is, but there is no soldering. Just patience and common sense and following the very good directions provide with the encoder.
5. Tingoes added buttons to the controller, I chose not to. Know the wiring is there for an eighth button on each player’s side. I highly recommend using as Tingoes did, a button saw if you are to add the eighth buttons.
6. There is a mode switch, which switches between the default (Mode 1 – HotRod SE layout) and 3 other programmable modes. I have no intention of programming the HotRod SE, so I just left the switch inside the controller. If you are going to use the mode switch, plan to cut out a place for it on the controller, probably best in the back so it can be mounted properly.
7. Along with the mode switch, there is a small red led light which would serve as indicator whether the controller is in ‘programming’ mode or not. Again, since I have no intension of using the mode switch or programming the controller, I had no use for making a spot for the tiny led red light. Your choice may be different and you may want to make a tiny hole for the light.
8. To go along with the small red led light and mode switch, there is also wiring for a mode button. Similar to the previous points, if you plan to use it, plan to make room for it. Again, I would suggest the back of the controller by the serial connector.
9. After you have connected all the wires to the switch and are planning to now connect to the encoder on the jumper that the set is designated for, connect the serial connector first and then proceed with the rest. Having mounted the serial connector to the back will place the diagram given by X-Arcade in their instructions upside down. Simply turn the diagram upside down to see how to make the proper wire connections to the respective jumper on the encoder board. The instruction shipped with the X-Arcade encoder package are here: http://www.xgaming.com/service/ServiceFiles/X-Arcade%20BYO%20Manual%20USA.pdf
Note: Regardless of whether I used a particular function or not (IE Mode switch) I made all connections on the encoder board. I did not try leaving some connections off the encoder board to see whether there would be problems or not. The stuff I’m not using I just left inside the controller. You may want to go about and test not connecting some features, but I rather leave well enough alone.
Patience and a relative good block of time are best. Even with a 5 month old baby, a playful cocker spaniel and a tired wife, I still was able to open the HotRod SE, remove the old wiring and encoder, mount the new encoder and wiring, close the HotRod SE, reconnect to the PC and test in about 2.5 hours.
Hope this helps some or many in the same or similar boat,
P.S. I had a nice round of Dig Dug – Round 15 – 156,000+…Not one controller issue…Just perfect!